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MARCH 2017 DINING&DESIGN I N S C A N D I N A V I A Welcome to Fine Dining & Design - the place where the world comes together in Sweden FINE DINI...

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MARCH 2017

DINING&DESIGN I N

S C A N D I N A V I A

Welcome to Fine Dining & Design - the place where the world comes together in Sweden

FINE DINING & DE SI G N

CONTENTS

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3 EDITORIALS 4 ANNOUNCEMENTS 11 ORGANIZED GASTRONOMY… 21 2016 NOBEL BANQUET MENU 24 A FINE GATHERING IN LYON

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NON VIOLENCE PROJECT BY GLORIA HIGHPASAND

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SUSTAINABILITY TRENDING AT THIS YEARS DESIGN SHOWS

Past,current and future designs are on display

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CHEF DESIRÉE

She´s already competed for the Stockholm Culinar y Team

– Bocuse d´Or

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CHEFS REPORT 2017

Multifood culture, Sweden welcomes you

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Like a creamy white croquembouche…

GRAND HOTEL ON THE SWEDISH RIVIERA

MR FRENCH CHANGES IT´S MENUE AND DIRECTION

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YOUNG CHEF BECOMES CHEF OF THE YEAR

Inspiration from Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Singapore and Marrocco

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TÄLLBERGSGÅRDEN IN TÄLLBERG

COMPETITIONS & AWARDS

From ”Farmerville” to ”Tourist Town” almost over night

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DEN GYLDENE FREDEN” HAS CULTURE

It all started in 1722 in Gamla Stan - the cradle of Stockholm

WHO ARE THE CHAÎNE DES RÔTISSEURS The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an international gastronomic society for both professionals and amateurs , with roots that stretch back to the year 1248. The society is represented in about 70 countries and has more than 25000 members worldwide. From its headquarters in Paris the organization is headed by President Yam Atallah In 1959 the Balliage de la Suéde was founded by amongst others Tore Wretman. In Sweden there are 14 associations, so called Balliage (Bailliwicks) which is individually responsible for its own program of activities. Coordination, administration and international contacts are taken care by a national committee under the leadership of Bailli (Grand Bailiff ) Délègue. One of the society’s strong points is the international membership which allows them to make use of the fantastic network and offers possibilities to take part in any event at all, wherever and whenever over the whole world.

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EDITORIALS

T IM E TO P RE S E N T A N EW WORD – MU LT I F OOD Welcome To Fine Dining It is perfectly acceptable to forward Fine Dining to friends and acquaintances that are interested in Fine Dining.

In this edition, the first of the year, we bring you a bouquet of interesting people, places and events, starting as always with Carl. His interesting article keeps us up to date on things happening in the southern end of our long country. Then we travel with Catarina Offe to Lyon and learn the true story of what really took place at Bocuse d´Or…

Let us know about interesting events, meetings and so on at [email protected]

If that wasn’t enough, we also have the Nobel Prize Banquet menu from the gala dinner at Stockholm City Hall.

We cannot take responsibility for unsolicited material. Feel free to quote us but always reveal your sources.

It is also time to present the Chefs Report from Arla. 2017 will be a year that sees more openness and crossing boundaries in terms of our relationship with food. There will be more meetings between people and new cuisines, raw ingredients and spill, and even a broader view of health. These aspects are all included in the new term ”multifood.” Welcome to the table.

EDITOR IN CHIEF Ove Canemyr [email protected] Fine Dining/Trendsetter Box 24013, 104 50 Stockholm EDITORIAL Anne-Marie Canemyr, Carl Wachtmeister Catarina Offe ART DIRECTOR Sophie L Slettengren [email protected]

ENGLISH COPY Todd Bünger Would you like to be associated in Fine Dining? Tell us about your products or services. Newly opened or new designs, new foodstuffs and so on. Contact: [email protected] +46 70 794 09 87 Cover photo: Anne-Marie Canemyr

As usual, we visit some new restaurants and hotels across Sweden, but also focus on the oldest restaurant in Gamla Stan in Stockholm – Den Gyldene Freden, which opened in 1722, one year after the peace agreement signed in Nystads and has since then been seen as an extra living room for the cultural elite. Following tradition, Svenska Akademin eats pea soup and sip schnapps there every Thursday one floor up. The new head chef Christian Sjödin has even expanded with a bar right across the street (formerly called Järnet) named Cultur. They serve exciting small dishes and stand for the term ”Social Dining & Social Drinking”. We take a close look at young chefs and also what is taking place at Grand Hotel Saltsjöbaden, which is coming along nicely after waking up from its Sleeping Beauty period. Another project experiencing a new start here in Sweden is ”Non Violence,” whose assignment seems very appropriate for the current times. After that it is time to present the Young Chef of the Year, awards and cookbook reviews relevant to the Swedish market. Last but not least, everyone here wishes you all a very Happy Easter and an especially wonderful spring. OVE CANEMYR Editor-in-Chief www.finedining.se

PS Let us know about friends and acquaintances who you think would like to receive a copy of Fine Dining

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A FESTIVAL OF SAUSAGES AT OAXEN Messy, noisy, pleasant, good and worth the price. That’s what you get when Oaxen entices with a small surprise. On an average Sunday in the dark month of Febraury, Oaxen held a festival for sausage lovers. Their homemade lamb, beef and pork sausages (and all the fixin’s includng their own ketchup) were all on parade and could be enjoyed at Slipen. Next time they might have a taco party. ”Every Swede eats tacos,” says Magnus Ek, adding that, ”Last time it was a little chaotic.” We wait (un)patiently for the next opportunity for food chaos. Oaxen only serves great food, from the simple to the exclusive.

KITTY KOLA RETURNS Kitty Kola first came to Sweden in during spring 1953. Now Kitty Kola is back under new leadership thanks to pomologist Kajsa Leander with Berga Bruk in Småland. The world’s first healthy soda drink is made from apples and cola beans. Berga Bruk is releasing the new Kitty Kola – ecological, free from added sugar, containing natural ingredients. Its sweetness comes from the cola beans and apples. Kitty Kola also has two new siblings– Kitty Kool, a lemonade, and Kitty Krazy, a ginger drink. Kitty Kola arrived in Sweden spring 1953. An Englishman had convinced small, local breweries in Småland that the brown, carbonated that tasted like cola was the future. It went well for some months until Coca-Cola was launched in Sweden – Kitty Kola disappeared from the shelves. But the attractive logo with the cool cat with a straw was re-discovered in the local area by designer Joel Berg. Joel Berg and Kajsa Leander, founder of Berga Bruk, decided that the cola drink with the cool cat needed another chance. Joel modernized the logo and Kajsa and her team at Berga Bruk replaced all of the American chemical abbreviations with apples. The drink is really tasty, but drinking too much could lead to evil consequences in weight, heath and teeth. Berga Bruk’s goal for Kitty Kola was clear as spring water – keep the good aspects of the soft, rounded cola taste without using the detrimental ingredients. -We wanted to keep the positive characteristics. The cola should taste the same as it did when you were little, but even be good for you. We wanted to make a ”healthy” cola for both children and adults that could be consumed with a clean conscience so we replace the refined sugar with apples. We succeeded and Kitty Kola has arrived – the cola for a new generation,” says Kajsa Leander, founder and pomologist, Berga Bruk.

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LOVE OF THE YEAR ON VALENTINE’S DAY: BEER PRALINES Many Swedes take the chance to show extra affection for the ones they love on Valentine’s Day. This year, Chokladfabriken (The Chocolate Factory) recommends a special heart(felt) present – a praline that tastes like Guinness. The dark beer’s roasted tones of coffee and bitters create a unique taste experience, and combining that with chocolate makes a fantastic taste combination. Valentine’s Day is celebrated on February 14th and is a day when many give their near and dear a little extra love. The number of Swedes who celebrate the holiday has exploded since the 1990s, and today we shower our closest with big rose bouquets, presents, and – most of all – chocolate! This year, Martin Isaksson, Confectioner at Chokladfabriken and Team Manager for Sweden’s Nation Confectioner Team, has created something special for Valentine’s Day – beer pralines with a taste of Guinness. ”Here at Chokladfabriken, we work with everything from the classics to more daring tastes, and the combination of Guinness and chocolate are as unexpected as it is obvious. There is a small pearl of beer-crème in the middle of the praline who’s roasted coffee and bitters tones are intensified with the chocolate,” says Martin Isaksson. Dark beers, like stout and porter, are currently a growing trend on the beer market. Guinness brewed its first beer way back in 1759 and has a long tradition of creating new tastes. ”Experimenting with tastes has long been a hallmark at Guinness. And what’s better than combining our rich-tasting stout with chocolate? The perfect present for beer-lovers – either to give away or to enjoy themselves,” Rikard Norman, Brand Manager for Guinness in Sweden. The Guinness praline will be available at all of Chokladfabriken’s boutiques from February 13th until March 17th, St. Patrick’s Day. A box with nine pralines costs around 149:- SEK.

SWEDISH TRADITIONS IN FIVE LANGUAGES Swedes like to travel, a lot and often. Traveling lets you meet new people and make new friends. A small present in your baggage is a good idea. It might be handy to the have the book Svenska Traditioner (Swedish Traditions) by Jan-Öjvind Swahn, one of our foremost authorities in cultural history. The book is filled with interesting and moving stories, facts, anecdotes and recipes belonging to our traditions. The book is available in Swedish, German, Spanish, French and English. The only one missing is Italian, since Italy is one of our favorite travel destinations. Of course, the book is even interesting for us, too. We might not know as much about our own traditions as we probably would like to. Read and learn. Sooner or later you might get a question from a friend in another country and you’ll know the answer.

I N S P I R AT I O N A L W I N E K N O W L E D G E A N D T H E P E O P L E B E H I N D T H E D R I N K

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I N T E R N A T I O N A L

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SPOTLIGHT ON NEW ZEALAND PART 4 PAGE 25

BOËRL & KROFF - A WELL-KEPT CHAMPAGNE SECRET PAGE 32

2017 I N T E R N A T I O N A L

special

GEMTREE - AN ECOLOGIC GEM PAGE 49

PAGE 7 FRASCATI - A WINE WITH A DISTINGUISHED LEGACY PAGE 14 THE LATEST NEWS FROM SOUTH AFRICA PAGE 25 SPOTLIGHT ON NEW ZEALAND PART 4 PAGE 32 BÖERL 6 KROFF A WELL-KEPT CHAMPAGNE SECRET PAGE 36 STELLENZICHT ”TOP OF THE LINE” IN STELLENBOSCH PAGE 40 THE HISTORY BEHIND BATZELLA PAGE 45 THE CHAMPAGNE BUBBLE THAT BURST PAGE 49 GEMTREE - AN ECOLOGIC GEM PAGE 54 FINE WINE PRODUCER OF THE YEAR 2017 PAGE 55 GET SERIOUS SYSTEMBOLAGET

Fine Wines very own homepage

w w w. fi n ew i n e. n u Here you’ll find the last 4 editions of Fine Wine .

FINE SPIRITS / COLLECTABLE INVESTMENTS PAGE 57 FINE SPIRITS & COLLECTABLE INVESTMENTS THE DALMORE TO RELEASE A 50 YEAR OLD SINGLE MALT TO MARK HALF A CENTURY OF RICHARD PATERSON´S PIONEERING WHISKY MAKING PAGE 59 CHERRY HEERING CELEBRATING 200 TASTEFUL YEAR WEBAUCTION SPECIAL: PAGE 62 STOCKHOLM 6-7-8 MARS, THE FIRST AUCTION OF THE YEAR WITH A SPECIAL THEME PAGE 64 HART DAVIS HART WINE CO. TO HOLD A MASSIVE THREE-DAY INTERNET-ONLY AUCTION PAGE 66 CHRISTIE’S WINE DEPARTMENT ARE PROUD TO OFFER A SUPERB SELECTION OF VINTAGES DIRECT FROM THE CELLARS OF CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC PAGE 67 BONHAMNS AUCTION 6 APRIL IN LONDON PAGE 68 ERNESTO NETO INTERPRETS ORNELLAIA 2014 ‘L’ESSENZA.’

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INVESTING IN KVIBILLE INCREASES BLUE CHEESE PRODUCTION CAPACITY Kvibille dairy farm uses craftsmanship production methods in making their cheeses. The past few years have seen an unexpected increased demand for aged blue cheese, something the dairy farm couldn’t match with their capacity. During 2017, they will invest 15 million SEK increase production capacity and meet demand. - The craftsmanship production of blue cheese requires large areas for aging and storage. With this investment we’ll be able to increase blue cheese production by 30%. And not just that, we’ll also be able to present some new and exciting products, says Kvibille’s dairy manager Thelma Banzon. - This year, Arla is going to invest around 360 million SEK across the whole of Sweden. The investments will go to dairy farms and other production facilities, sites that in general are located in smaller communities. Investing in Kvibille is just one of the steps ARLA is taking to ensure and develop operations in Sweden, says Arla Sweden’s CEO Patrik Hansson Kvibille’s dairy farm was started in 1916. They began producing cheddar in 1928, and blue cheese production started in 1932. They still employ the craftsmanship methods and recipes as they always have. - With this investment, we are continuing the passion for cheese in Halland and passing it on to new generations, concludes Arla’s CEO Patrik Hansson.

SATURNUS LAUNCHES KRAV DESIGNATED AKVAVIT JUST IN TIME FOR SUMMER FESTIVITIES On March 1st, the family-owned company Saturnus released a KRAV-designated classic Archipelago aquavit at Systembolaget. The schnapps is named Saltö after the little island in northern Bohuslän’s archipelago, and is best described as a classic Swedish archipelago aquavit. Herring, salt and schnapps form a holy trinity that comes together on Saltö, a small, beautiful windswept island in northern Bohusläns archipelago. This is where Saturnus got the inspiration for their new archipelago aquavit, which is made with craftsmanship.

POLARBRÖD – A SWEDISH SANDWICH CLASSIC Polarbröd is a family-owned company with an over 100 year-old tradition in bread culture from Norrland which has grown from a small family bakery to one of Sweden’s largest bread makers, producing around forty thousand tons of bread annually. Polarbröd is self-sustained using renewable energy sources to fuel their operation. The company is run by the fifth generation of bakery children and wants to continue the tradition for generations to come. The term ”stand-out” is often used at the bakery, and the Stand-out Award is given to daring individuals as an acknowledgement they have chosen their own path, and show empathy, strength, new thinking and perseverance. Polarbröd has now opened a sandwich bar in Stockholm’s Central Station.

Ecologic cumin and fennel are distilled separately in copper tanks. They are blended together and balanced resulting in a really good schnapps. Finally, the aquavit is carefully spiced with handpicked bog myrtle from Halland, which gives Saltö its unique taste characteristics. - ”Saltö schnapps is an extremely exciting and timeless product. The combination of cumin, fennel and bog myrtle matches perfectly with salt, herring and fresh shellfish and cheese. And the bottle design makes it even look good standing on your table. Additionally, it feels really good introducing yet another ecologic schnapps at Systembolaget. Using great raw ingredients is something we really value here at Saturnus,” says Louise Ahlander, Product Manager at Saturnus. Saturnus’ existing schnapps line still includes the popular other archipelago aquavits, even the KRAV-designated big seller Utö. Two years ago they added Piratens Akvavit and Fjäderholmarnas Flädersnaps to the collection. As Sweden’s largest schnapps producer, they are pleased to present another ecologic schnapps to the market. Saltö Akvavit is produced in the same way as their other products in the factory in Malmö, where locally produced raw ingredients are used as much as possible. ”Saltö launched before Easter but it is a schnapps that can even be enjoyed on Midsummer Eve or as a good friend with wonderful summery herring or a cheese plate,” concludes Louise Ahlander. Saltö can be purchased from Systembolaget’s base assortment after March 1st. It comes in a 35 cl bottle and costs 140:- SEK. Alcohol 38 % vol, item number 80-02.

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EXPLORER LAUNCHING ECOLOGICAL GIN

THE CONFUSION ABOUT SEMLA BUNS

Explorer expands its range and for the first time is set to release their first non-vodka product – ecologic gin.

Throw tradition out the window. The once sacred Easter-only Semla buns are now sold almost all-year-round, and even the classic Tössebageriet has stopped checking the dates when they ”should” be sold. Sitting right next to the traditional delicacy are new creations in terms of both taste and filling.

Explorer Vodka was founded in 1958 and quickly became popular in Sweden. Today, Explorer is Sweden’s mostsold vodka – almost a million bottles sold annually. Explorer Gin is distilled

Photo: Pressbild, Catarina Offe

Broiche and pastry bread or flavored with Safron, chocolate and licorice with matching fillings. Unsalted rolls with acidified cream and whitefish roe. Might that be something good? Bravest of the all might just be restaurateur Pontus Frithiof, who together with baker Pelle Henriksson and chef Andreas Edlund created the Rossini semla comprised of the traditional bun filed with Spanish marzipan, perigord truffles and duck liver mousse, covered in grated truffles. ”We released the Rossini semla with a wink in our eyes, and as a reaction to all of the unusual versions we’ve seen over the past few years. But it is amazingly good,” says Pontus Frithiof. But on the other hand, he believes we should safeguard of seasons and the gastronomical calendar. So take the opportunity and really enjoy the truffle semla while you can.

in pot-stills with real juniper berries. The ingredients are entirely ecological, and besides the juniper berries, the distillation process includes coriander seed, wild celery, lemon zest and ginger. Explorer Gin is a true ”Distilled Gin,” the highest quality available and also called ”London Dry Gin”. ”Gin is the base in many people’s favorite drinks and can be mixed in so many ways. Everything from classics like French 75 which has been around for over 100 years to more modern cocktails lemonade cocktails,” explains Caroline Grundström. Keeping the environment in mind, the products are bottle in PET bottles. Opening Explorer Gin in these bottles reduces greenhouse gas release by a whopping 45%, and the production process requires 23% less energy use compared with glass bottles.

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MATHIAS’ NEW SPOT Mathias Dahlgren closed Matsalen at Grand Hôtel last December, and this February he opened Rutabaga. This is where Mathias will build his vision of a new-thinking green kitchen with world-class vegetarian dishes and a free space that welcomes tastes from around the world. ”I’m driven by creating new taste experiences and have been looking forward to looking into the future together with new and old guests,” says Mathias. All of the pieces are in place right now, raw ingredients, knowledge and interest. A large portion of the menu is comprised of meals that can be shared, combined with other dishes or that can be eaten alone, coming from pretty much the entire world’s combined cuisines with new tastes and innovations. The meeting between the chefs and the bartenders gave rise to a new type of drink. The restaurant is warm and alive. Central for the entire Rutabaga concept is modern luxury, quality, availability and flexibility. PS. Rutabaga is an international word for kålrot (Swedish word for Rutabaga). Rutabaga is one of only a few Swedish raw ingredients that established itself all over the world. That’s why it is call a Swede in English.

SWEDEN’S MOST-SOLD ALCOHOL-FREE BEER GOES MORE GREEN More and more Swedes are choosing alcohol-free drinks both in restaurants and at home, which has led to a jump in sales for the alternative. Now choosing alcohol-free will be even greener when Carlsberg converts Sweden’s most sold alcohol-fee beer -– Carlsberg Non Alcoholic – to ecologic. Swede’s interest for alcohol-free beer is bigger than ever; sales at Systembolaget have increased 66% over the past two years. As the beer boom swept in over Sweden, even what is in beer has become something of interest – 1 in 3 Swedes choose to buy green if that alternative is available. * And now the alcohol-free choice is greener than ever as Carlsberg is converting the most sold alcohol-free beer in the country Carlsberg Non Alcoholic to the ecological Carlsberg Non Alcoholic Organic. By making that change, about one third of all alcohol-free beer sold in Sweden will be ecologic beer. ”What is nice about beer is that its taste doesn’t come from the alcohol content, and we see that knowledge and awareness of taste and content is increasing. More and more consumers are choosing alcohol-free and green, so we are pleased to be able to combine the two,” says Karin Atterfors, Manager for beer at Carlsberg Sweden.

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MOVIE THEATER PARADEN GOES THROUGH A REVIVAL

TEGELBACKEN IN ROSE The restaurant is located at the street crossing near the Sheraton and where Stockholm’s first Japanese restaurant Seikoen was situated. The turquoise-pink-purple decor is worth the risk for those who dare cross the street among the cars and buses. Enjoying the decor is the first experience, but then comes Master Chef Markus Aujulay’s own feel-good food, providing a new dimension that cannot be easily described. Quite simply, it is completely different from anything you’ll find on a menu these days and is a must. Former Chef of the Year is the head chef, yet another guarantee you won’t be disappointed. The wines are as carefully chosen as the food, primo customer service, all of which definitely makes this a favorite restaurant that doesn’t follow trends, maybe just their own. Absolutely worth a visit.

The movie theater Paraden on the corner of Valhallavägen/Erik Dahlbergsgatan in Stockholm opened in 1932 and was one of the entertainment Meccas on Östermalm. The locale has been empty for many years but now movies have been replaced with food and drink, though the spirit of movies lives on. Relaxed yet service-minded personal and flexibility make for a pleasant experience in a noisy local pub atmosphere alive in every corner including the steps and balcony and even a view of the open kitchen. They have microbrewery beer and small southern European-inspired dishes. But you can even share a roasted Swedish bird at the large family table.

PENNY & BILL Finally! Stockholm’s first gastrobar has opened - Penny & Bill. Luxrestauranger and Henrik Norström are behind this new favorite stop. The chefs and bartenders stand side-by-side and cooperate to serve new and exciting dining experiences. They have entremets and cocktails. A ”foodtail” is a great way to start the evening. The dishes come from the raw bar or grill, and they also serve something for everyone: cold, warm, vegetables, fish, shellfish and meat.

W O U L D Y O U L I K E T O H AV E Y O U R OW N I S S U E O F F I N E D I N I N G I N YO U R E - M A I L - F R E E O F C H A RG E ? PLEASE GIVE US AN E-MAIL TO [email protected]

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TRENDSETTER GLOBAL C O M M U N I C AT I O N

+46 707 94 09 87

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ORGANIZED GASTRONOMY… BY CARL WACHTMEISTER, BAILLI DÉLÉGUÉ SVERIGE (CHAIRMAN) CHAÎNE DES ROTISSEURS

IT IS OFTEN SAID THAT WE SWEDES ARE A PEOPLE OF ORGANIZATIONS. IT DOESN’T REALLY MATTER WHAT THE ISSUE IS – THERE ARE ORGANIZATIONS FOR EVERYTHING.

Obviously for politics and culture. We have all sorts of interests like racing, the environment, nature, sailing, sports and a whole lot more. There are even homeowners associations and unions in the workplace. Why not for friends

and family? Or ballooning or deepsea diving? Maybe the Titanic. Pretty much anything and everything. And naturally you can find food and drink organizations. There are tons of clubs and societies whose largest interest is to learn more about good food and drinks. Or both. It can also be to preserve or

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THE FIRST DATE CAN BE CALLED THE BEGINNING, WHILE THE LAST DATE CAN BE CALLED A NEW BEGINNING – A RENAISSANCE.

more importantly develop a certain commodity or product. Or a phenomenon or tradition. There is something for everyone. Some combine the different parts. Anyway, it feels secure that you can usually find kindred spirits with like-minded food and drink enthusiasts. Preferably in an organized form. I belong to that group. As you can imagine, I am ”organized,” even though my wife might think differently. Initially easy, but with time… Up to the hilt. That’s the way it goes sometimes. Interests vary and go up and down. But so far this has only gone up… Anyway, what is the point of my particular interest? You may have noticed it on the cover of Fine Dining. Or on one of the pages in the magazine. The logo. Or maybe the coat of arms? Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. You’re thinking, ”OK, what is that?” That’s what I’m getting at. What is that name? How did it all start? I can tell the long

story or the short story, or something in-between. Try and imagine it somewhere between the middle and the shorter version. If you take a quick glance at the shield you’ll see that something began in 1248 and ended in 1950. That’s usually the way it goes – a beginning and an end. This could be the case here, too, but it’s not that easy. The first date can be called the beginning, while the last date can be called a new beginning – a renaissance. And the two are connected. Let’s start at the later date. Towards the end of 1939, one of the modern founders Jean Valby got a hold of a great roasted lamb. That wasn’t so easy in Paris at the time as rationing was the rule of the day. He just got lucky. Mr. Valby was a true friend of good food,

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1960 GOTHENBURG

CURNONSKY

but maybe not equally at cooking it. Mrs. Valby had to intervene and the roasted lamb was cooked to perfection. He had also invited two friends for dinner on the day in question. Euphoric about the scrumptious roast lamb, the three friends decided that a new movement to promote culinary arts was needed, and with a focus on the proud French traditions readily available in the area. These traditions had been nearly decimated during the war years, and the world seemed to be going in the wrong direction in many senses of the word, including even gastronomy and the culinary arts. It was proposed that the new organization should be based upon simple and easily digested cooking (one

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of the friends was a doctor specialized in digestion…), founded on roasted and grilled meat. They immediately started forming the basis for their new organization. Two more people were invited. They were two professionals, one of whom was the last Paris producer of classic rotisseries, and the other was a well known chef who had several restaurants. Easter 1950, during a dinner at the restaurant Auberge de la Truite at the fashionable adress rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the modern Chaîne des Rôtisseurs was formed. Their aim was to promote the ideal of

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the old Rôtisseurs, which disbanded in connection with the French Revolution at the end of the 1700s. That guild’s roots date back to 1248, thus the year on their coat of arms. They also had the ambition of gathering professionals and amateurs, symbolized by the two chains. The professionals the inner chain, and the amateurs the outer chain. Both dependent on the other. The central portion of the shield contains the mark the French king gave them in the early 1600s. Two crossed roasting spits complemented by four larding utensils. They also decided that it should be an order society. More about that soon. But the most important thing is that the modern Chaîne des Rôtisseurs had been created. As the group became better known, their reputation spread outside of France. Tore Wretman was instrumental in bringing it to Sweden in 1959. Today, a little more than 50 years later, Chaîne is alive and well in Sweden and internationally, totaling over 80 countries (though many are connected

TORE WRETMAN AND BIRGITTA HANSSON

TORE WRETMAN WAS INSTRUMENTAL IN BRINGING IT TO SWEDEN IN 1959.

to France in more ways than one). Their official languages are French and English, HQ in Paris, the chairman and President have to live in France. This author isn’t required to live in France, but all of the annual meetings are held in France. And thee are a lot of French words in the regulations, grades and a whole lot more. As luck would have it, for some of us in any case, there is no requirement for speaking French. Best to pick it up along the way.

In Sweden, Chaîne is represented across the entire country. From Norrbotten to Skåne. There are tens of local organizations, socalled Bailliage, that run the operation under the watch of the national organization with a Bailli Délégué as the chairman, a roll this author currently has the benefit of owning. Chaîne is growing, but kind of slowly. Worldwide there are over 25,000 members, of which 7000 are professionals. Sweden boasts 600 members, of

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which 20% are professionals. In other words, Chaîne provides a good network for those who have the time and desire to be engaged in culinary arts.

THEY ALSO HAD THE AMBITION OF GATHERING PROFESSIONALS AND AMATEURS, SYMBOLIZED BY THE TWO CHAINS.

As I mentioned, Chaîne is also an Order/Society. But maybe a slightly less formal one. Becoming a full-fledged member includes being dubbed and enthroned. This is done with spits but also a sea of swords and similar weapons. You also have to swear ceremonial oaths to be true and to and respect the honorable culinary arts, and to treat fellow members kindly. All of the members receive a lovely Order band that should be worn at special events. It is a chain with our coat of arms on the lower hem. The color of the band and which chain you have shows which role you have in the group. For example, a Chairman has a green band, while a board member has a blue one. If you are a professional there is always orange on the band. It is also easy o see whether someone works in the kitchen, the dining room or with drinks or with hotels. There is a lot to learn if you want to keep track of everything. Most members probably look for a more modest level. The time you get your band is called a chapter, a Chapitre. If you have a big Chapter, a Grand Chapitre, which takes

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place over several days, try to plan it over a weekend. In the early 1960s, a new group was created for members more interested in drinks than ”regular” members, thereby saying that that other members were less interested, quite the opposite. Although their interest was stronger. This special part of the Order, the Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs (OMGD), simplified Mondialen. Their goal is to promote appreciation, happiness, competence and knowledge of wins, distilleds, beer, water and anything you can drink. Not least of all because Chaîne is represented in countries that do not allow alcohol. As a Mondialen member, you are dubbed with a part of a grapevine. Sweden is currently in the starting phases of Mondialen. For one reason or another, it has taken time. And not just because organizations like Munskänkarna are strong here. So Chaîne needs to complement rather than compete with other groups. Many Chaîne

members are also involved in the drinks aspect. A little bit into the 2000s, Chaînes started their charity branch ACCR - Association Caritative de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. The idea is that it is always easier to help and support in areas where you are already engaged. The help is focused on food. Everything from helping different schools and building kitchens to educating personnel. There is also a large focus on giving children in risk areas education about food, which might lead to a

job. A good example is the South African cooking s school IKUSASA where, with a few exceptions, the graduates get jobs. This project is also in South America, Africa and Europe. And of course there are also other organizations that focus on food, drinks and gastronomy, all with similar aims and operations. What is different with Chaîne is that it is a very international initiative. A big plus is that as a member, no matter in which country you reside, you have the opportunity to

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be involved in almost anything, whenever and wherever Chaîne exists. As long as there is room. For members interested in traveling, there is a lot to do. As mentioned, Chaîne is represented i 80 or so countries, and there is always something going on somewhere. Just pack your bags and jump on a plane, whether it be to Tällberg, Åbo, Venice, Cape Town, Las Vegas, Hong Kong or the Cock Islands. To mention a negative, it costs a little to drag administration around just for company. A portion of the membership fee goes to the HW in Paris, no matter where you live. This makes Chaîne a little more expensive than other comparable organizations in the countries where we work. But, at the same time, it isn’t easy to make direct comparisons. Some of what you pay for is the international context and companionship. Like a culinary Rotary Club.

A BIG PLUS IS THAT AS A MEMBER, NO MATTER IN WHICH COUNTRY YOU RESIDE, YOU HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO BE INVOLVED IN ALMOST ANYTHING, WHENEVER AND WHEREVER CHAÎNE EXISTS.

The benefits from memberships, besides the international aspect, are clearly the events at home. There are magazines and newsletters, plus the aforementioned network. Both for professionals and amateurs. The job market adds for professionals is also important to mention. And last but not least, Chaîne arranges the chef and sommelier competitions for younger members. For our younger chefs who haven’t turned 27, there is the Young Chef of the Year competition. They must first qualify through a national selection

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THE SHIELD SYMBOLIZES EXACTLY THAT – HIGH CLASS AND QUALITY.

where the winner continues on to a final in one of the countries where Chaîne is represented. It could be in Australia, America, China, Hungary, or why not Finland. The location changes from year to year. The competitors are given a secret bag (a so-called Black Box) and have to create a three-course meal, including recipe description, kitchen work and presentation. For the young sommeliers, the same national selection process is used, and there is also an international final. But in this case, the competitors are allowed to be as young as 35. So far in Sweden we

only have the chef competition, which is called the Young Chef of the Year. For many of the young professionals it is a starting point for successful competition careers. To be able to complete, you don’t have to be a member, but you do have to work at a restaurant where there is a professional who is a member with the grade Maître. Over the years, our coat of arms has become synonymous with class and high quality regarding food and ingredients. Our professionals are given a shield to display outside of their restaurant or hotel. The shield symbolizes ex-

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actly that – high class and quality. Chaîne doesn’t grade restaurants in that manner, but membership includes responsibility, and if you don’t keep up the standards the shield will be taken down. Being so involved, it’s hard to know when to say enough is enough. You get it. I’ve probably already gone on too long, but I just hope that our twist on organized gastronomy, Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, received a somewhat illuminating review. Certainly in my passion I have forgotten many things I had planned on mentioning, something I might come back to in another installment. Who knows? It would be strange if that weren’t the case. If anyone reading these lines thinks all of this sounds interesting, please get in touch. We welcome new members to our organization. There is so much more to explain. Do you like good food, good drinks and travel and meeting like-minded people from around the world? Yes, Chaîne is something you’ll like. I also forgot to mention that, as a rule, we don’t talk about politics or religion when we meet. We let the food speak for itself…

DO YOU LIKE GOOD FOOD, GOOD DRINKS AND TRAVEL AND MEETING LIKEMINDED PEOPLE FROM AROUND THE WORLD? YES, CHAÎNE IS SOMETHING YOU’LL LIKE.

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2016 NOBEL BANQUET MENU COPYRIGHT: NOBEL MEDIA AB 2016, PHOTO DAN LEPP

SAYAN ISAKSSON AND DANIEL ROOS HAD THE HONOR OF CREATING THE TOP SECRET MENU FOR THE NOBEL BANQUET. BOTH SAYAN AND DANIEL HAVE BEEN IN THAT POSITION BEFORE AND KNOW HOW TO IMPROVE THEIR PREPARATIONS.

”A THOUSAND GUESTS EAT DINNER WHILE 400 MILLION OTHERS WATCH THEM,” CARL JAN GRANQVIST CLEVERLY MUSED.

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ast year, Sayan didn’t sleep a wink before the Nobel gala. This year they can both enjoy the unique experience of making the world’s most famous dinner for 1350 guests. ”A thousand guests eat dinner while 400 million others watch them,” Carl Jan Granqvist cleverly mused. More than 40 chefs are involved in preparing

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THIS YEAR THEY CAN BOTH ENJOY THE UNIQUE EXPERIENCE OF MAKING THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS DINNER FOR 1350 GUESTS.

the meals. Sayan and Daniel both feel they’ve gotten closer this year. All of the dishes complement each other better than they have before. But Sayan could also imagine serving an entirely vegetarian dinner, which is something we might see one day. The Nobel Committee’s two culinary leaders, chefs Fredrik Eriksson and Gert Klötzke, recommend appropriate chefs and confectioners early in the year. Three menu entries are submitted, two of which are selected and tasted before choosing the final winning submission.

THE MENU: Charcoal baked langoustine and scallop, served with nettles, ramson and pickled winter apples Quail from Södermanland in black garlic and leek ash with Jerusalem artichoke, preserved wild mushrooms and jus of roasted chicken skin and mustard seed. Cloud of sudachi fruit, cloudberry sorbet, miso crumbs and deep-fried rice paper.

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A FINE GATHERING IN LYON TEXT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE, PRESSBILD

EVERY OTHER JANUARY SEES A GATHERING OF WORLD CHEFS AND EVERYONE ELSE IN THE FINE DINING INDUSTRY GATHERS TO ATTEND THE MOST PRESTIGE-FILLED CULINARY COMPETITION - BOCUSE D´OR. STARTED BY STAR CHEF PAUL BOCUSE IN 1987, THIS YEAR’S COMPETITION TURNED 30.

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fter selections through contributing countries’ initial entries and the semifinals (for Sweden this took place in Budapest last year), 24 chefs were chosen to participate in the World Championships, a competition that has grown into a celebration for the entire branch. ”Everybody was there.” Two thousand people watched from the stands and they kept the atmosphere electric. And Sweden’s Prince Carl Philip stood in the middle

ALEXANDER SJÖGREN

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”EVERYBODY WAS THERE.” SWEDEN’S PRINCE CARL PHILIP STOOD IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SWEDISH FAN SECTION TO HELP CHEER ON THE COUNTY ’S TEAM.

of the Swedish fan section to help cheer on the county’s team. Sweden’s representative Alexander Sjögren had been practicing in a kitchen at the entertainment park Gröna Lund in Stockholm. But Stockholm’s Convention Center built an exact replica of the competition kitchen in Lyon so that Alexander and his teammates could go through repetitions, perfect the process, set up the logistics and polish every step. And Alexander probably practiced the most. The competition has many intricate and complicated rules, and said rules can change from year to year. The ingredients that are to be used are successively published. The demanding presentation portion of the competition was Bresse chicken and shellfish. Plate presentation was, for the first time ever, an entirely vegan dish,

and the competitors had a list of over 100 ingredients to choose from. ”It was really challenging finding the rich tastes that we usually get from meat,” says Alexander. But nonetheless, the chosen few who got to taste the dishes had no problem finding that richness. Bocuse choosing a vegan dish for the competition is significant. ”It’s fantastic, a huge change that has been a long time coming. When

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A TOTAL 25 % OF THE POINTS AWARDED GO TO HOW A NATIONAL IDENTITY IS REFLECTED AND ALEXANDER’S RESEMBLES A WALK IN THE SWEDISH FOREST

Bocuse d’Or takes that step, chefs around the world get it.” A total 25 % of the points awarded go to how a national identity is reflected and Alexander’s resembles a walk in the Swedish forest – the plate is surrounded by moss and chips that look like birch-bark, lichens and mushrooms. Alexander’s help came in the form of fellow chefs Hampus Risberg and Jonas Lundgren. Henrik Nor-

ström is the President of the Swedish Bocuse d´Or Academy and has followed Alexander his entire journey. Both Jonas and Henrik have previously competed at Bocuse. Sweden was randomly chosen to begin the competition and didn’t look back – ”We shifted gears and went into robot-mode when competition began,” says Alexander. And then they had to wait an entire day before they got their result – 7th place for Alexander. ”Honestly, it feels awful”, he says, continuing ”Just a really bad result. I don’t know what to say. I wanted to be on that podium. We didn’t hold

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back. We really put everything we had into it.” He would’ve been happy with a 1st, 2nd or 3rd place. ”I’m done,” he concludes. But, there were some Nordic winners. Second place winners Norway, often taking home silverware from Bocuse, continued their impressive scorecard having winning the whole thing the second most times. And a surprise in 3rd place was Iceland and chef Hinrik Lárusson. It wasn’t any huge surprise that USA would win 1st place honors, and the favorites win wasn’t undeserved. They were spectacular. Even though this year’s competition wasn’t a huge success for Sweden compared with previous years, we are quite sure we will have yet another determined chef who replaces Alexander in the mix in two years. Competing in Bocuse is important. Mathias Dahlgren said, ”We represent Swedish gastronomy, share it with the world so the world comes to Sweden.” And remember this - Stockholm is the most prize-winning gastronomy city in the world!

”WE SHIFTED GEARS AND WENT INTO ROBOT-MODE WHEN COMPETITION BEGAN,” SAYS ALEXANDER. AND THEN THEY HAD TO WAIT AN ENTIRE DAY BEFORE THEY GOT THEIR RESULT – 7TH PLACE FOR ALEXANDER. Ú

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The same arena in Lyon was also host for Coupe de Monde de la Pâtisserie. This was the third time the Swedish national team participated. This year’s theme was their entry was Fashion, and all of their components breathe fashion, esthetics and a female touch. “The Swedish team has been unique at this World Cup in that we had two female competitors. That put a special touch on both are way of competing and our entries,” Maria Grave, team member and responsible for the sugar sculpture and chocolate cake. During the ten hour-long competition the team had to complete a chocolate sculpture, a sugar sculpture and an ice sculpture, all of which had to be over one meter high. The ice sculpture was carved from a 220 kg block. Fifteen desserts, three chocolate cakes and three

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fruit ice cream cakes were also required. The Swedish Confectioners Team landed at an 11th place out of 22, but won the Best Innovation prize. The French team came in first, followed by Japan and Switzerland. ”We are so incredibly pleased and happy with our performance today. Just getting to compete in this here against the best in the world is an honor,” says Team Captain Tony Olsson, going on to say that, ”We got a lot of positive feedback for our tastes, the complexity we presented on the table, the theme, how we work together, and that we had two female competitors. The Best Innovation award proves that we belong among the best.” And Team Coach Martin Isaksson can only agree. So once again, France came first, followed by Japan and Switzerland, but the Swedish team showed their capabilities and will be a force to be reckoned with in coming years.

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TRENDSETTER GLOBAL C O M M U N I C AT I O N

+46 707 94 09 87

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CHEFS REPORT 2017 PHOTO SANDRA BIRGERSDOTTER EK

THE 2017 CHEFS REPORT PREDICTS 2017 WILL BE A YEAR THAT SEES MORE OPENNESS AND CROSSING BOUNDARIES IN TERMS OF OUR RELATIONSHIP WITH FOOD. THERE WILL BE MORE MEETINGS BETWEEN PEOPLE AND NEW CUISINES, RAW INGREDIENTS AND SPILL, AND EVEN A BROADER VIEW OF HEALTH. THESE ASPECTS ARE ALL INCLUDED IN THE NEW TERM ”MULTIFOOD.” ARLA HAS INTERPRETED THIS DEVELOPMENT INTO FOUR TRENDS AND ALLOWED SOME OF NATION’S FINEST CHEFS TO CREATE RECIPES BASED ON THE CONCEPT. MULTIFOOD CULTURE, SWEDEN WELCOMES YOU.

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his year’s Chef report is about diversity and meetings between people. That is why we asked our chefs to get assistance from someone hey are inspired by and that can challenge them either in relation to technique, background or food philosophy. This resulted in interesting meetings, happiness about possibilities for food, and twelve new recipes using “multimat” (multifood), says Inger Myresten, Marketing Director at Arla Foodservice.

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SWEDISH FOOD CULTURE HAS BEEN ENRICHED FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS BY INFLUENCES FROM DIFFERENT CULTURES. THAT DEVELOPMENT HAS NOW GONE INTO HYPERSPACE MODE.

Swedish food culture has been enriched for hundreds of years by influences from different cultures. That development has now gone into hyperspace mode. At the same time as Sweden becomes more multicultural we continue to take inspiration from our vacation destinations and our digital view of the world. 2017’s Chefs Report summarizes this in four trends: svinnovation (better use of spill), rätt utan etikett (rights without labels), själsosam kost (food that is healthy for the soul) and food makeovers. HUGE INTEREST FOR MULTIFOOD CULTURE

As a part of their report, Arla surveyed Swedes’ views on the multifood culture. The results showed that 79% want to update/upgrade their eating by exposure to new tastes, influences or methods from other cuisines. 83% thought that

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mixing influences from other cuisines make cooking more fun. 63% believe social media is a good source for inspiration and taste combinations from other parts of the world. A majority (56 %) actively search for new tastes and influences from other cuisines more than they did five years ago. — Besides och social outlets for inspiration, chefs are good sources for new trends and information related to making food. 69% of Swedes say they are braver and dare to try new things to a larger extent at home if they have tried new dishes and taste combinations at a restaurant, says Inger Myresten.

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Below is a summarization of trends from the 2017 Chefs Report. SVINNOVATION

Minimizing spill is one of the hottest environmental questions right now. Inventiveness is the answer. This trend is all about everything from companies that produce edible packaging to chefs that find new ways to use the entire raw ingredient. Tortilla chips from unused bits of fruit in juice production be an option for alternative for a cozy Friday taco night with the family? This idea gives us both multifood and multimaterials. Svinnovation was interpreted by Jimmi Eriksson (2016 Chef of the Year, Lilla Ego) and Anders Isaksson (chef at the Swedish Consulate in New York).

RÄTT UTAN ETIKETT

Brunch, or the Swedish variation ”frunch” (frukost=breakfast), has long been a favorite in-between meal. In the English-speaking world, there are even the words ”brinner”, breakfast food for dinner, and ”linner”, meals between lunch and dinner. The boundaries are also becoming unclear in Sweden. Restaurants have started serving brunch throughout the entire day and traditional meal

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times and traditions are become less important. The multiple meal times put conventions aside and make it less important to put a label on what it is we eat. Rätt utan etikett was interpreted by Saori Ichihara (Esperanto) and Elias Eriksson (Woodstockholm).

SJÄLSOSAM KOST

The health trend is here to stay, but it is taking new forms. Increased awareness makes us want to eat more green and avoid additives. At the same time, an anti movement against healthy eating continues to grow. In 2017 we will eat for our bodies and souls, and base this on our personal well-being and follow a strict diet. Själsosam was interpreted by Lina Ahlin (Agrikultur) and Kicki Olofsson (musical producer).

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FOOD MAKEOVERS

The past few years we’ve seen everything from hamburgers and kebab to sausages and beer being re-packaged to gourmet versions of themselves. This development continues with new and exciting food makeovers on menus. Chefs show style with the help of exclusive ingredients and unimagined raw ingredients from different world cuisines. Is a sushi pizza or a miso porridge tomorrow’s meal? Which everyday classic will be the next to show up in a new tuxedo? Combining fantasy and culinary craftsmanship, chefs take popular food and create new, boundary-crossing multifood. Food makeovers was interpreted by Peter J. Skogström (Chef of the Year 2006, Smarta Kök, Mat & Vin i Slottsparken) and Marie Skogström (Mat & Vin i Slottsparken). To view the entire Chefs Repport and all of the recipes, please visit: : www.arla.se/kund For consumer recipes, visit www.arla.se

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MISTER FRENCH CHANGES IT’S MENU AND DIRECTION SINCE OPENING IN 2013, MISTER FRENCH HAS BEEN PROUD OF HAVING ONE OF STOCKHOLM’S BEST OUTDOOR DINING SERVICES WITH THEIR MAGNIFICENT VIEW OVER THE WATER. AND AS THE NAME IMPLIES, THEY ARE FOCUSED ON FRENCH PREP, BUT THEY EVEN OFFER HINTS OF BRASSERIES FROM NEW YORK AND LONDON.

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hefs Thomas Åsberg and Petter Viding started designing concept and menu changes in late 2016, which has now come to fruition. Thomas and Petter’s vision has been to retain the French cuisine basis while adding inspirations from French Indonesia including everything from spices, taste ide-

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MISTER FRENCH TAKES ITS INSPIRATION FROM LAOS, CAMBODIA, VIETNAM, SINGAPORE AND MARROCCO.

as, preparation and service. Mister French takes its inspiration from Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Singapore and Marrocco. The result is a French classics in a modern crossover with unique taste combinations. Their exclusive offering of shellfish (which is one of their hallmarks) remains and they will more actively continue serving only the best food on the market from the most exclusive suppliers.

caring,” – smaller portions served so that everyone at the table can taste the different tastes. Mister French has also introduced a new service process where the guests are to some degree involved in preparation together with the chef. Small grills with lava stones are placed out among the tables where the guests can grill their meat of fish to their personal preference.

All of the meals on the menu are served with the motto ”sharing is

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The goal is to create a familiar, relaxed ”home dining” feeling where the guest, chef and staff are largely integrated and where the restaurant visit becomes a restaurant experience. ”We are a little tired with the concept appetizer, main course, dessert. We think it’s nice when something happens around the table

and that you can discuss and agree upon something. I got the idea for this concept while cooking with my friends making tempura a’la minute. I have to add that I don’t want the guests to make their own dinners. Finish the meat or fish and be a part of the process,” explains Thomas.

I HAVE TO ADD THAT I DON’T WANT THE GUESTS TO MAKE THEIR OWN DINNERS. FINISH THE MEAT OR FISH AND BE A PART OF THE PROCESS,” EXPLAINS THOMAS.

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en ekologisk nyhet från

systembolagets enda ekologiska crémant

Fynd dina viner 2015-10

göteborgs posten, 2016

v e u v e a m b a l c r é m a n t d e b o u r g o g n e , a r t. n r 7 9 1 1 , pris 119, 750ml, alk. 12%

Alkohol kan skada din hälsa 39

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TÄLLBERGSGÅRDEN IN TÄLLBERG TEXT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE, TÄLLBERGSGÅRDEN

YEA, WHERE ELSE WOULD IT BE. IN TÄLLBERG, WHICH HAS THE NICKNAME ”HOTELBERGET” BECAUSE OF THE NUMBER OF HOTELS AND ROOMS FOR RENT THAT HAVE ACCUMULATED OVER THE YEARS. AT FIRST GLANCE IT SEEMS THEY OUTNUMBER THE NUMBER OF RESIDENTS.

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nly 200 people live here, but there are also 400 summer residents with their own cottages and about 1000 hotel beds. Tällberg, or ”Thaellebaerghe” as it was called back in 1450, means ”pine mountain,” and is a beautiful village on the hillside by Lake Siljan, and home to magnificent panoramas and amazing sunsets over the water all year round. In the beginning of the last century Tällberg

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TÄLLBERG CHANGED FROM ”FARMERVILLE” TO ”TOURIST TOWN” ALMOST OVER NIGHT.

was an ordinary farming community, with thirty or so farms with grazing livestock and many residents. When the railway arrived, many passers-through discovered this quaint village and tourism soon became their best source of income. Tällberg changed from ”Farmerville” to ”Tourist Town” almost over night. It isn’t surprising that everyone wanted to visit Tällberg, which lays in central Dalarna, close to most everything, surrounded by fairy tale landscapes. The hotels are situated on the slopes down near the beach, and many craftsmen and artists have congregated around the same area. Their work in combination

with the village’s atmosphere represents the sensorial imprint Dalarna can leave. Despite the flow of tourists, the village has maintained its roots, the craftsmen are talented, handicrafts are among the best, and the hotels clean, polish, renovate and renew, and keep an extra eye on their food. One of Tällberg’s smallest hotel Tällbergsgården is located right in the middle of town, and their restaurant doesn’t merely offer great dining experiences, it also has an amazing panoramic, miles wide view

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over the ”masarnas hav” (Dalarna’s ocean), Lake Siljan. Jerk Åkerblad is a member of one of the traditional tavern families and grew up at Åkerblads Gästgiveri, which was previously run by his parents Arne and Christina Åkerblad. Jerk was the family’s little rascal but calmed down when he hung out in the kitchen with cook Hilda when he was seven years old. Eventually he studied and became a chef, resulting in jobs in Stockholm. Grand Hotel and Grape D´Or, the beginnings of the new restaurant kitchens in Sweden with Gunnar Forsell – all listed on his resumé. Gunnar even became Jerk’s teacher. One exciting assignment was when Tore Wretman offered Jerk a job as banquet room manager at Riche. ”I didn’t think I could do it, but Tore did. And when Tore calls, you answer,” he remembers. That Jerk Åkerblad, like his parents, would own a hotel was never in doubt.

Hospitality, love for their guests, and good food is in their blood, and as a result Tällbergsgården has grown. ”We used to be able to relax during spring and fall, but we don’t have low-seasons anymore,” explains Jerk. Certainly Christmas and summer are high points for them, but Tällbergsgården has visitors all year round. Spring and fall attracts customers with Tällberg’s beautiful changing colors. Deeper into the darkest time of the year, guests looking for a little encouragement to make it throughthe

The Åkerblad family acquired Tällbergsgården in 1994, which is now managed by Jerk and Carina Åkerblad, together with grandchilden Claes and Josephine Åkerblad.

HOSPITALITY, LOVE FOR THEIR GUESTS, AND GOOD FOOD IS IN THEIR BLOOD, AND AS A RESULT TÄLLBERGSGÅRDEN HAS GROWN.

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TÄLLBERGSGÅRDEN’S TEMPTING AFTERNOON TEA BUFFET STANDS SET WITH SANDWICHES, PASTRIES AND SCONES.

winter show up for a little cheer. In other words, no down time. After a pleasant walk through the village, Tällbergsgården’s tempting Afternoon Tea buffet stands set with sandwiches, pastries and scones. Lemon curd, whipped cream and homemade marmelade are givens. The good teas and a glass of chilled glass of champagne usually make he the pastries taste even better. The buffet is set in the salon in front of the fireplace, and there is a risk you might get full before dinner.

Tällbergsgården’s Master Chef Tommy Johansson prepares all of the food from the ground up, combining recipes from Dalarna and other parts of Sweden using classic techniques – local, national and international. Tommy puts a large emhasis on raw ingredients in the local area, and the dishes are inspired by the ingredients of the season available on the day. ”As much as possible, we use use Swedish ecologic products, and in the winter we can acheive this using classic Swedish preparation methods,” says Jerk. Meat and pork from the local farmers, fresh fish from Swedish waters, fresh vegetables grown in Dalarna, berries and

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TOMMY PUTS A LARGE EMHASIS ON RAW INGREDIENTS IN THE LOCAL AREA, AND THE DISHES ARE INSPIRED BY THE INGREDIENTS OF THE SEASON AVAILABLE ON THE DAY.

mushrooms picked from around the village, milk, cream and butter from Dalarna cows, and fruits and berries from our own garden and the surrounding forests. ”We fell privileged to use these products that are made with love and compassion, and our found in nature.” During the summer, the kitchen grows their own herbs in Tällbergsgården’s private herb garden. The products from the natural surroundings in Dalarna are combined mainly with French, Spanish, and Italian products, and the choices are very well thought out.

Tommy also has a close collaboration with Linn and Magnus Ollas from Bruntegården in Rättvik, which is inspirational and furthers the development of Tällbergsgården’s kitchen. ”We are going to put even more focus on the food,” ensures Jerk. Head Chef Tommy Johansson likes making the guest favorite Poached Siljan salmon with herb sauce and apple pie with a meringue base. Naturally the menu includes Kalix roe, lots of fish, and many meat choices including in-season wild game. Everything is prepared from

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the local base ingredients, so the Lake Mälaren pikeperch is probably the longest traveler. Tin Gumuns from Karl-Tövåsen’s Fäbod provides the kitchen with butter, cheese and acidified cream. Ickholmens slakteri raises both Dlarana cows and pigs. Magnus Ollas from Bruntegården in Rättvik acts as a mentor in Tällbergsgårdens kitchen, inspiring and developing alongside and together with Tällbergsgården’s personnel. And Jerk ensures that they will focus more on the food. Tällbergsgården is going to be a boutique hotel with a big emphasis on food – that is Jerk’s vision. ”We are going to raise the bar, renovate and even create a view into the kitchen.” The terrace will be transformed into a winter garden because they need more room for Tällbergsgården’s popular restaurant. The architect

in the village is happy to help with the blueprints. Jerk, his family and staff happily contribute. ”If you can’t find something already done you make it yourself,” says Jerk. The architect in the village gladly helps out with the blueprints. Jerk and his family and staff are all very engaged. ”If you don’t find anything already made, make it yourself,” says Jerk. So thus, the rustic dinner table – with help from the family’s carpenter – is constructed in their stomping grounds. The rumors about Tällberg in general and more specifically about Tällbergsgården have been heard outside of Sweden’s borders. Recently, The Italian lifestyle magazine Vogue de Monde stopped in for a visit. Time for an excursion, one that will probably become two or three or more, all year round.

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TÄLLBERGSGÅRDEN IS GOING TO BE A BOUTIQUE HOTEL WITH A BIG EMPHASIS ON FOOD – THAT IS JERK’S VISION.

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DEN GYLDENE FREDEN HAS CULTUR TEXT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: : CATARINA OFFE, DEN GYLDENE FREDEN

GAMLA STAN IS THE CRADLE OF STOCKHOLM, WHERE EVERYTHING STARTED, INCLUDING DINING AND DRINKING RESTAURANT GYLDENE FREDEN STARTED IN 1722 AND IS STOCKHOLM’S OLDEST. IT HAS ALWAYS BEEN A POPULAR LOCATION FOR PEOPLE OF CULTURE, LIKE JUSSI BJÖRLING, CARL MICHAEL BELLMAN, EVERT TAUBE, CORNELIS VREESWIJK AND FRED ÅKERSTRÖM, AND IN THE EARLY 1900S FUNCTIONED AS A ”LIVING ROOM” FOR SWEDEN’S ART ELITE.

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his is where you could find Anders Zorn, and when the restaurant was close to going bankrupt, Zorn bought it and saved it for future generations to enjoy. There was a line in his will stating that meatballs must always be on the menu. He donated the restaurant to Svenska Akademien, which still owns it. On Thursdays,

the Academy eats lunch in the Bellman room, pea soup at least on time per year, and schnapps is poured into the Members’ personal glasses. There are sideboards on bot sides of the entrance and just in and to the left is where Evert Taube’s sat at his regular table.

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Visiting Den Gyldene is truly an historic experience. The focus is always on Swedish culinary tradition, and goose dinners have become a little more popular again. Lutfisk with all of its accompaniments is served every December, and crayfish dinners and game dinners are also on the calendar every year. Instead of serving a Christmas buffet, ”Freden” has the Danish ”julefrukost.” They put a lot of food on the table, about seventeen different dishes and their condiments. Passing plates and dishes between each other has turned into a new old-fashioned way to eat and have a good conversation. During the summers, the have an outdoor eating area which looks out over and all of the thousands of people walking around in Gamla Stan, night and day. The menu focuses on Scandinavian raw ingredients and traditional

”A LOT OF PLACES IN GAMLA STAN SERVE MEATBALLS, SO WE MAKE SURE OURS STICK OUT FROM THE CROWD,” SAYS NEWLY RECRUITED CEO JOHAN LINDQVIST

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BUT ”FREDEN’S” TALENTED GROUP OF CHEFS LED BY CHRISTIAN SJÖDIN HAVE BEEN SUCCESSFUL, AND THE FAT AND HEAVY VARIATIONS OF HUSMANSKOST ARE CONSPICUOUS IN THEIR ABSENCE.

”husmanskost” with real garnishes – sometimes a hard balance to maintain. But ”Freden’s” talented group of chefs led by Christian Sjödin have been successful, and the fat and heavy variations of husmanskost are conspicuous in their absence. Zorn’s meatballs and herring dishes are always on the menu. ”A lot of places in Gamla Stan serve meatballs, so we make sure ours stick out from the crowd,” says newly recruited CEO Johan Lindqvist, adding for assurance, ”and they do!” Johan has a diverse and well-mixed background with experiences from Sturehof’s husmanskost to Berns’ popular Asian fine dining restaurant Spring. Even he was surprised when he came to ”Freden.” ”It is a real gem,” he says and feels honored that he has been given the opportunity to manage it and preserve it for future generations. ”We have tradition and culi-

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nary craftsmanship here,” he adds. ”Freden” doesn’t need a to be rebuilt from te ground floor up, they are a good product that is always in the upper echelon of Swedish gastronomy. Everyone has known about it for decades, but with all of the new restaurants and new styles, ”Freden” has had a little difficulty being heard over all the noise despite always being ranked among the finest. One of Johan’s responsibilities is to change that. Social media use is going to increase to spread ”Freden’s” image. The food will continue to develop along with the times while staying true to its heritage, just with modern, fresh, good, healthy and environmentally-conscious choices. Sausages and isterband are made

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HAVING CHRISTIAN AS A MENTOR CHEERLEADER HAS HELPED MANY OF ”FREDEN’S” CHEFS BE SUCCESSFUL IN COMPETITIONS. BOTH LINDA FALLIS AND PHILIP OLSSON HAVE WON THE YOUNG CHEF OF THE YEAR AWARD

on-site and the menu changes all the time. ”And in all probability we’ll have vegetarian dishes in the future as well,” says Johan. The kitchen staff really enjoys the newly renovated kitchen area. ”Freden” has a lower staff turnover rate than many other restaurants in Stockholm, something that helps in delivering consistent, high-quality meals. ”Swedish preparation methods include smoking, pickling, preserving, using lactic acid, making sausages and curing. These are all dear to us and getting to use these techniques in this storied building just adds another dimension,” says chef Christian Sjödin. ”This is a fantastic location filled with history. Keeping the classic with new methods is a pleasure to work with. We deliver top-notch herring, classic husmanskost at lunch, and typical tasty Swedish dishes in the evenings. Our isterband (smoked sausage) is completely amazing! And our employees are very diverse; we have a great mix of men and women from many different age

groups, which is benefit for the restaurant as a whole,” adds Philip Olsson. Having Christian as a mentor cheerleader has helped many of ”Freden’s” chefs be successful in competitions. Both Linda Fallis and Philip Olsson have won the Young Chef of the Year award (an annual competition arranged by Chaîne des Rôtisseurs) and defended Sweden’s colors in the world finals. Linda’s husband Spiro Fallis has also reached the final. And there will certainly be more we’ll get to see. Not too long ago, the guests were businessmen and tourists, many from Norway. ”There is a strong connection between Bellman and Norway,” explains Johan. More recently, the number of Stockholm residents and women has increased, so the direction ”Freden” has taken seems to be working. Higher lunch traffic is also a good sign.

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BUILDING CULTUR

If we say that ”Freden” is a symbol of culture with a big C, its new sibling Cultur does too but with an entirely different meaning of the word. With bar culture and exciting small dishes, this is a modern AW restaurant. Just across the street from ”Freden,” Cultur open last fall. Their generous rooms have been full since then. The menu includes several tasty appetizers. The Crab croquettes are delicate, as is the herring, the meats melt

in your mouth and the desserts are exceedingly scrumptious. This is where friends come for ”Social Dining & Social Drinking.” The atmosphere is pleasant and there is modern Swedish art on the walls. In other words, Den Gyldene Freden and Cultur take care of almost any need a dining guest could have. Well done.

DEN GYLDENE FREDEN AND CULTUR TAKE CARE OF ALMOST ANY NEED A DINING GUEST COULD HAVE. WELL DONE.

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The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an international gastronomic society for both professionals and amateurs , with roots that stretch back to the year 1248. The society is represented in about 70 countries and has more than 25000 members worldwide. From its headquarters in Paris the organization is headed by President Yam Atallah In 1959 the Balliage de la Suéde was founded by amongst others Tore Wretman. In Sweden there are 14 associations, so called Balliage (Bailliwicks) which is individually responsible for its own program of activities. Coordination, administration and international contacts are taken care by a national committee under the leadership of Bailli (Grand Bailiff ) Délègue. One of the society’s strong points is the international membership which allows them to make use of the fantastic network and offers possibilities to take part in any event at all, wherever and whenever over the whole world. världen.

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NON-VIOLENCE PROJECT BY GLORIA HAGHPASAND - A COLLABORATION BETWEEN GLORIA HAGHPASAND OCH NON VIOLENCE SWEDEN

GLORIA HAGHPASAND IS MARRIED TO AXWELL, AND THEY’VE BEEN ACTIVE FOR MANY YEARS IN VARIOUS NON-PROFIT PROJECTS. THEY HAVE TWO CHILDREN TOGETHER AND WANT THEM AND OTHER KIDS TO HAVE THE BEST POSSIBLE FUTURE WITHOUT VIOLENCE, AND SO BEGAN GLORIA’S COLLABORATION WITH NON VIOLENCE PROJECT. NON-VIOLENCE IS AN INTERNATIONAL, NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION THAT WORKS WITH CONCRETE EDUCATIONAL METHODS TO PREVENT AND STOP VIOLENCE.

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on-Violence’s goal is to radically reduce violence in societies and to educate the next generation of adults how to solve problems without using violence by using such things as increased self-confidence to gain deeper insights and increased awareness. The educational material has been developed for use in schools, sports and music and is primarily directed towards youths aged ten to nineteen. Gloria’s association with Non Violence really grabbed at her heart strings since she saw a lt of violence growing up and has lost near and dear friends and family members. She burns for this project and hopes that it can help raise awareness and engagement towards stopping violence among children and youths. The charity project took place at the Haymarket Scandic Hotel in Stockholm. Gloria transformed Greta Garbo’s suite at Haymarket into her atelier for a week, and the

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project began with a press breakfast, followed by two open house evenings and concluded with an exclusive VIP night. The oil painting Gloria created is inspired by the Non-Violence Pistol, and there is a chessboard in the background which symbolizes wisdom and education. The message the artist hopes to convey through her work is that every child is unique, as the large squares represent, and that we as a society and reduce violence through education, which is Non-Violence’s philosophy.

All donations received go directly Non-Violence Sweden. Gloria will decide which specific school will receive the donations. If you are interested in helping to stop violence in our society and want to support this project, please make a bid on the artwork.

ALL DONATIONS RECEIVED GO DIRECTLY NON-VIOLENCE SWEDEN. GLORIA WILL DECIDE WHICH SPECIFIC SCHOOL WILL RECEIVE THE DONATIONS.

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En kraftfull klassisk rioja när den är som bäst Klassisk Rioja med sju år på nacken - rika svartvinbärstoner med körsbär, choklad och vanilj. Bäst till hemgrillade hamburgare. Mikael Mölstad - SVD 12.07.2015

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SUSTAINABILITY TRENDING AT THIS YEAR’S DESIGN SHOWS TEXT & PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE

PAST, CURRENT AND FUTURE DESIGNS ARE ON DISPLAY AT FORMEX, MÖBELMÄSSAN (STOCKHOLM FURNITURE AND LIGHT FAIR) AND THE ANTIKMÄSSAN (ANTIQUES FAIR), WHICH TAKE PLACE SUCCESSIVELY THROUGH THE FIRST MONTHS OF THE YEAR.

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he hottest trend is sustainability and it was most apparent at Formex. You can say ”No design, no sustainability” and it is predicted that designers not working sustainably might as well file for bankruptcy. This year’s theme is Nordic Space, and is characterized by space and marine characteristics, sacral, pure style, undecorated, allowing, and artistic with new exciting materials based on re-use. Orrefors is an example of the then and the future. They celebrate 275 years of glassmaking this year and want to be around in another 275 years. They want glasses to be both usable and exciting, and young designer Sara Persson has created a series of vases for different types of flowers, but ones that

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can also stand on their own. And behind the scene inside the warm glazing hut, lead hasn’t been used for years. At Möbelmässan (Stockholm Furniture and Light Fair) sustainability is the theme in discussions about design and architecture, but more between the established designers rather than the younger ones. Interesting. With a few exceptions, most of the materials are light in color, wood dominates and the shapes are Nordic simple. One innovation is putting moss on the walls. Handpicked reindeer moss form our forests in the north have found a new purpose – sound insulation. According to the innovators it muffles sound two times more than standard insulation and even works as a decorative function since the color of moss varies and has many nuances. The ever-increasing interest in food is reflected in the broad choices of furniture where you can have something to eat. Large and generous with room for guests and good conversations. ”Must see,

EVERYTHING IS ACTUALLY A FUTURE ANTIQUE IF IT HAS STAYING POWER AND BECOMES A PURE, SOUGHT-AFTER CLASSIC. Ú

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must eat,” says the Italian guest chef Isabella Marone who is responsible for the food served in the full-scale top class restaurant Design Bar. Everything is actually a future antique if it has staying power and becomes a pure, sought-after classic. Appearance isn’t the only aspect that matters, form, function and worn out eyes and hands also play a key role. And if that is how the object should look. Attractive wear and tear from the teeth of time, but not cleaned up for current times. The ones that turn into classics have a certain level of design, are typical for their time, and are recognizable. Everything at Antikmässan (Antiques Fair) automatically falls into the re-use category and on display here are beautiful, indestructible silver flatware items, long rows of crystal services, and dinner sets that awaken long-forgotten memories. Copper is predicted to be the next ”new” old metal to follow brass, so start polishing grandma’s pots and pans.

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CHEF DESIRÉE TEXT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE, ÅSA FROSTFELDT

I HAD ACTUALLY THOUGHT ABOUT USING A TITLE LIKE ”YOUNG, FEMALE AND CHEF” FOR THIS ARTICLE, BUT I CHANGED MY MIND AFTER THE CONVERSATION I HAD WITH DESIRÉE JAKS. ”I JUST WANT TO BE A GOOD CHEF, NOTHING ELSE,” SHE SAYS. AND THAT IS WHAT SHE HAS ALWAYS WANTED.

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er childhood growing up in Poland was filled with many hours with her grandmother in the garden. ”That is where you are really close to nature and food, says Desirée. Despite the long days at work in the city, she still finds inspiration in nature. Plants and mushrooms easily make their way into her basket as she takes long walks in the woods and across meadows. Desirée has been a chef for three years since studying at the Internationella restaurangskolan (International Restaurant School) and has set some big goals for herself and her career. For her, working at one particular restaurant for six months or so is just about right. She has consciously selected places that fit her goal strategies, her methods and that focus on sustainability. Griffin’s Steakhouse, Sjön and now Agrikultur suit the way she works. She also believes that working environment is very important. Competing is also one of her shortterm goals. She’s already competed for Stockholm Culinary Team with the cold table and helped the team win the title Olympic gold medal winners 2016 in Erfurt. Now she wants to make the Chef Na-

DESPITE HER YOUNG AGE, DESIRÉE SEEMS LIKE A PERSON WHO KNOWS WHAT SHE WANTS, AND I’M SURE WE’LL HEAR ABOUT HER QUITE A BIT AT BOTH FINE DINING ESTABLISHMENTS AND COMPETITIONS. Ú

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tional Team and participate in the Chef of the Year competition, and just keep getting better and better. She loves pushing herself to achieve that little extra. Last fall Desirée got the chance to host a dinner from her own personal menu at Ateljer 23. ”A super chance, fantastic! I got to talk about what is important for me and the guests really appreciated that,” she summarized. Desirée is deeply appreciative of the men and women who have been role models for her. ”But

sometimes it gets attention for the wrong reasons,” she says. Desirée has special admiration for Lina Ahlin, her colleague at Agrikultur and a good role model. ”It isn’t about a feministic position, it is strictly related to work,” she clarifies. Despite her young age, Desirée seems like a person who knows what she wants, and I’m sure we’ll hear about her quite a bit at both fine dining establishments and competitions. We wish you the best of luck!

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GRAND HOTEL ON THE SWEDISH RIVIERA TEXT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE, FREDRIK MALMSTEDT, PER-ERIK BERGLUND

LIKE A CREAMY WHITE CROQUEMBOUCHE WITH TOWERS AND PINNACLES, GRAND HOTEL SALTSJÖBADEN STRETCHES INTO THE SKY. K.A. WALLENBERG, A CENTRAL FIGURE IN SWEDISH FINANCE AND INDUSTRY, STARTED THE HOTEL.

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he idea to build a ”Swedish Riviera” came to him while on a trip to Monaco. He began planning the palace of his dreams, surrounded by the trees on the ocean along the coast in Saltsjöbaden. The hotel was built in the French style, inspired by Hotel de Paris in Monte Carlo. K.A. Wallenberg and his Alice were both deeply engaged in the project and worked painstakingly to ensure that every little detail in the building and decor was perfect. The hotel opened in 1893 and remained in the family’s ownership for 107 years. The hotel even became a refuge from the city and K.A. Wallenberg even had a railway with connections in Stockholm to be built, and also a stop just outside the hotel’s large entrance.

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The hotel has been the site for peace talks during wars, a conference center for heads of state, and visits from royalty and Hollywood stars. Frank Sinatra and Ava Gardner here in 1953, and the suite they stayed in now bears their names. It should also be mentioned that a major union-employer agreement was signed here on December 20,1938. It would later be known as the ”Saltsjöbad Agreement,” which led to the Swedish expression ”Saltsjöbadsandan” – the spirit of the Saltsjöbaden Agreement. After many successful years the hotel became less of a destination and was half-heartedly maintained. Its corridors were dark as

every other light bulb had been removed from the lamps to save electricity. On September 21, 2015, Gunnar Järvhammar acquired the hotel, and the company Lustgården Saltsjöbaden AB has begun reviving the hotel’s splendor. The first order of business was screwing the light bulbs back in. It won’t be just like it once was, but it will be equally tastefully done and elegant, and super-modern using today’s modernities. ”Sweden’s best hotel,” says CEO Jonas Linderoth when talking about the new vision. There is currently an parking lot in front of the hotel, something that takes away from the overall beauty of the site. One just shakes their head wondering what it is doing there. Cars should be hid-

THE HOTEL HAS BEEN THE SITE FOR PEACE TALKS DURING WARS, A CONFERENCE CENTER FOR HEADS OF STATE, AND VISITS FROM ROYALTY AND HOLLYWOOD STARS. Ú

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den somewhere underground in a garage, and a park with oak trees and a water fountain should be put there like it was before. A wellknown garden designer has been brought in to make changes and a park attendant rakes the area every day now, just like before. There are plans for growing edible greens on the roof and in the garden. Unsuitable and unattractive structures will be torn down and a completely new restaurant will see the light of day. Inside, the roms are being renovated and every nook and cranny in the restaurants, bars, banquet halls and conference rooms are getting touched up and cleaned. The long corridors (made extra-wide so two ladies wearing crinolines could get past one another if the met in the hallway) now bask in light and the ventilation system is discretely tucked away in the red pillars so one doesn’t even notice it.

happens, however, their doors will greet guests and locals who care about their hotel. Outdoor activities like ice-skating and sailing change with the seasons, but there is always something to do. In summertime the terrace is filled with people and in the harbor there is usually some event taking place.

Panini and Printzece on the culinary map.. So Grand in Saltsjöbaden contacted him. It was the perfect location in terms of commuting since he lives in Saltsjöbadsben, but that wasn’t what was so enticing for

The renowned and ever-enthusiastic Fredrik Malmstedt is responsible for the food. He might be best known for his highly appreciated fine dining restaurant 50 Kvadrat in Visby. Since that he has been working with both large and small projects. He’s made Gotland’s meat famous, based on the storied Stallmästaregården, and worked with restaurant entrepreneur Ricard Constantinou, the man who put concepts like K-märkt, Teatern,

The hotel plans on staying opening as long as possible so it might be a good idea to visit soon. An appealing Sunday brunch is served for both arriving and departing guests ad the hotel’s spa is a wonderful place to relax and cleanse one’s mind and body. For those planning a wedding, grab the chance and have the reception here. The grandiose ballrooms are perfect for weddings, and the have hosted many even in the hotel’s ”low-season.” But hotel management has said that closing for a time is inevitable. Before that

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Fredrik. Being a part of reviving a classic luxury hotel and leading it into the future is an opportunity almost anyone would jump at and Fredrik is no different. The food is classic, well prepared using local products with modern twists. For example, Sailor beef with wine and beer-cooked potatoes, or the slow-cooked marrowbone (which is so tender it can be eaten with a fork) served with spiced mayonnaise. The Swedish Ingrid Maria apples have been topped with a oat crunch and mascarpone ice cream. Just glancing through the menu one can see that the produce comes from he best. And naturally, the plans for the new restaurant are on everyone’s mind, but eating here now is already an experience. ”On a scale from one to ten, Id say we began this journey at minus one hundred, so we have a lot of work to do,” says Fredrik, adding that ”Until everything is final and ready to go, we’ll continue serving complete, clean, functional meals and make sure our guests receive great service.” And there is no reason to believe anything different. We want to wish the grandiose Grand Hotel in Saltsjöbaden all the luck in the world, both now and in the future.

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FYND Allt om vin 2015

93p

Decanter 2016

Bästa nyheterna i September! Tasteline

Art. nr: 2064-01 Pris: 199 kr Storlek: 750 ml Alkoholhalt: 14 %

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rån anrika Stellenbosch kommer detta nyanserade och stramt fruktiga vin. Det har inslag av ceder och svart te och en karaktär av svarta vinbär, mörka körsbär, rostade fat, mörk choklad, mynta och tobak. Du dricker det med fördel tillsammans med grillad entrecôte eller ryggbiff och till mustiga grytor. 21 Gables Cabernet Sauvignon kommer från renommerade Spier Wines, som grundades redan år 1692. Idag är Spier en av de mest prisbelönta vingårdarna i hela Sydafrika.

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YOUNG CHEF BECOMES CHEF OF THE YEAR TEXT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO ÅRETS KOCK: CATARINA OFFE, MÅNS JENSEN, MADELEINE LANDLEY FOTO ÅRETS UNGA KOCK: TIBOR BÁRÁNY © TIBORFOTO.COM

SO FINALLY, THE BIGGEST EVENT OF THE YEAR IS OVER AND JIMMI ERIKSSON, CHEF OF THE YEAR 2016, HAS PASSED THE BATON. HE HAD SOME WORDS FOR HIS SUCCESSOR: ”BE SURE AND ENJOY IT!” JOHAN BACKÉUS TOOK HOME THE BIG TITLE THIS YEAR, AND HE WAS CERTAIN WORTH THE WIN.

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e has been in four finals, two of which he came in second. His gets his tenacity and stubbornness from his dad. Never give up. If he hadn’t won this year, he be back again next year. But now his job is to take on the assignment of being the Chef of the Year until 2018. ”It ’s gonna be cool as hell,” he laughs. We never had a doubt Johan would have fun; he is a humorous guy from Norrland who laughs easily. He appeared on Channel 4’s morning show last Saturday, and you would never know he had just won a huge competition. But stopping competing is not something he thinks about. ”There is another competition left,” he says. So even though e now has many things to do, he is going to begin training for the next Bocuse D´Or in 2019. For the past year he has been very focused on the Chef of the Year competition. Practicing, evaluating, and practicing some more.”It feels like my life circled around this and it feels nice it’s finally over.”

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JOHAN BACKÉUS TOOK HOME THE BIG TITLE THIS YEAR, AND HE WAS CERTAIN WORTH THE WIN. HE HAS BEEN IN FOUR FINALS, TWO OF WHICH HE CAME IN SECOND.

But the competition was hard. Many of the finalists are known in their own right, and like Johan have also competed before. ”But I ran my race,” says Johan, adding, ”Vegetarian is fun and I like spuds (potatoes).” The potatoes and other raw ingredients were topped with some technical pirouettes so they’d look cool. ”The winner has performed exceptionally well by creating well developed dishes with balanced tastes, a good finish and he passed the test of technical ability. The dishes have nice aftertastes that linger on the palate,” as the impressive jury made up of 24 of Sweden’s most capable chefs, along with long-time honorary member Prince Carl Philip. Even thought the ceremony is sur-

prisingly short, Johan had time to reflect. ”When they called out the bronze winner, I thought ’I’m going to pass out if they call my name next’. Butt hen they named the silver winner, and that is when I started to panic. Was I not going win anything?” Butt hen when they called his name: ”I was completely exhausted, had shaky knees and was close to tears. I thought, ’Is this for real?!?! What am I going to do now?’” And a major factor in Johan’s win is his entire family and his girlfriend Birgit, who is also in the branch and knows what kind of support is important to give. And naturally mom and dad, who helped in many ways. A few years ago, Johan competed in the Young Chef of the Year and received a medal. After that he kept on trying harder and kept receiving accolades. ”My advice for people in-

terested in competing: Don’t give up!” Sebastian Thureson won the silver and the bronze went to Magnus Persson. There is on really good way to make the Chef of the Year final, competing in the Young Chef of the Year competition. Many chefs who have competed there had had success in this year’s Chef competition. Five of eight finalists have previously competed in the Young Chef competition: Luqaz Ottosson won in Sweden in 2012, Magnus Persson won in Sweden and went on to take silver in the international competition in 2005, Jesper Bogren won in Sweden and internationally in 2007, Martin Hansen and Johan Backéus have been finalist in 2016, and Jimmi Eriksson who won in Sweden in 2016 and won a silver internationally in 2013.

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Immediately after Chef of the Year, The Young Chef of the Year finals started, for the 41st year in a row. Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, an international gastronomy organization for both professionals and amatuers, arranges this competition for young chefs who are active at restaurants associated with Chaîne des Rôtisseurs in about 70 countries. The chefs can’t be older than 27 years. This year’s Swedish challenge took place on February 27th, and the winner will compete in the world championships in Frankfurt, Germany in September. The competition adheres Chaînes’ international regulations were each participant receives a secret basket (the baskets are the same for all of them) and is required to prepare a three-course meal for four people.

Magnus Åkerström from Stadshuskällaren in Stockholm was awarded the title Young Chef of the Year 2017. His genuine knowledge was obvious and well represented in his dishes; his menu had the most consistent quality of them all. He has spent four years in top gastronomical spheres in Sweden. Stadhuskällaren is where all of the Nobel dinners are maintained, and where previous Chef of the Year Andreas Hedlund continues working to raise the bar even higher. All of Stadshuskällaren’s chefs have been lucky to watch him work. Andreas’ many years as an instructor have definitely made an impact, as has working for Stadshusrestauranger. They are an employer

that supports and encourages their chefs to compete in order to increase their individual working knowledge, and naturally the restaurants and employers only want the best for them. True, the banquet room in Stadshuset (City Hall) has its own kitchen organization but knowledge and experience spill over in two directions. Magnus’ chef colleague Philip Lindgren also made it to the final, as well as Isak Oldenburg from Grand Hotel in Saltsjöbaden, Ebba Nordin and Viktor Arabzadeh from Upper House in Gothenburg, and Hampus Fors from Upper House in Gothenburg. Hampus took 2nd and Ebba 3rd. Both are definitely going to compete again. See you again next year at both competitions.

SEE YOU AGAIN NEXT YEAR AT BOTH COMPETITIONS.

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 CO M PE T I T I O NS

GASTRONOMISKA AKADEMIEN’S AWARDS Their gold medal has been awarded to Magnus Nilsson, restaurateur at the amazing restaurant Fäviken Magasinet in Jämtland for his extraordinary contributions to culinary arts in Sweden. Fäviken is ranked as on of the 25 best restaurants in the world. The silver medal was given to Håkan Jönsson, the chef-turned-researcher with an ambition to describe, explain and possible even affect what happens with food and meals in Sweden. Food writer and author Anna Sjögren won the Golden Pen. Diplomas were given to Yngdéns Knäcke in Borgholm for personal crispbread, Lotta Fabricius at Svenska Bin for her outstanding achievements in bee keeping, and to Restaurang Gro which focuses on the green options and possibilities in the restaurant’s kitchen.

& AWARD S

CHEF OF THE YEAR The winner for 2017 is Johan Backéus, who was given Gastronomiska Akademien’s Mejerimedalj (Dairy Medal) as well as an inspiring study trip to a gastronomically interesting country. Thomas works at Aveqia in Gothenberg. H. K. H. Prince Carl Philip presented him with the prize. The silver Dairy Medal was awarded to Sebastian Thureson, and the bronze went to Magnus Persson.

YOUNG CHEF OF THE YEAR Magnus Åkerström from Stadshuskällaren in Stockholm was named Young Chef of the Year 2017 at an awards ceremony at Stockholms Hotell- och Restaurangskola. He and five other finalists were asked to prepare a three-course meal using ingredients from a secret list, which included the required ingredients, an entire pikeperch and roast leg of lamb. With the win, Martin will compete in the world finals in Frankfurt, Germany, in September. Hampus Fors from Swedish Taste in Gothenburg came in 2nd, and Ebba Nordin from Upper House in Gothenburg came 3rd.

ÅRETS GULDDRAKAR (GOLDEN DRAGON AWARDS THIS YEAR) Dagens Nyheter’s Gulddrake was given to: • Restaurant-exclusive - Adam/Albin • Restaurant-budget - 800 grader • Café - Mellqvist Caffè Bar • Bar - Yuc! • Honorary prize winners were A A Gill (posthumous), Surehof and Take Over • Dragon of the Future Stipendium recipients were Rebecka Norrby and Signe Åberg

BOCUSE D´OR Sweden and Alexander Sjögren came in 7th place. USA took home the win, followed by 2nd place Norway and 3rd place Iceland.

W O U L D Y O U L I K E T O H AV E Y O U R OW N I S S U E O F F I N E D I N I N G I N YO U R E - M A I L - F R E E O F C H A RG E ? PLEASE GIVE US AN E-MAIL TO [email protected]

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FINE DINING & DE SI G N

 CO M PE T I T I O NS

& AWARD S

BUSINESS RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

COUPE DE MONDE DE LA PÂTISSERIE

Klas Lindberg’s restaurant Portal has been named Business Restaurant of the Year by newspapers Dagens Industri and Di Weekend. ”Perfectly right for he times and in the right location, they serve a modern dining experience. Shooting Star of the Year is also Restaurant of the Year 2016. Di Weekend’s award goes to Portal!”

The Swedish National team for confectioners came in 11th place out of 22 competing countries, and won the award for best innovation for the theme ”Fashion.” France came in 1st, followed by Japan and Switzerland.

SWEDISH MICHELIN STARS

óó

• Oaxen Krog, Vollmers, Fäviken Magasinet

ó GOURMAND AWARDS

EUROPEAN OYSTER CHAMPIONSHIPS (OSTRON-EM) Johan Malm came in 2nd place and is one of Sweden’s best oyster shuckers. 20 competitors from 13 countries competed to see who could shuck the most oysters in a given amount of time. Johan is still the reigning world champion from last year.

59 Swedish cookbooks released last year won nationally and will participate in the international contest where 211 countries are represented. Sweden’s best cookbooks from 2016 were judged by an international jury whose chose to send 59 of them to the Gourmand Awards, where they will compete for the ”Best in the World” award. The prize ceremony will take place in May in Yantai, China.

• Ekstedt, Esperanto, Gastrologik, Mathias Dahlgren Matbaren, Operakällaren, Sushi Sho, • Volt, Imouto • 28+, Bhoga, Koka, SK Mat & Människor, Sjömagasinet, Thörnströms Kök, Upper House • Sture Malmö, Bloom in the Park • Hotell Borgholm, Daniel Berlin, PM & Vänner

W O U L D Y O U L I K E T O H AV E Y O U R OW N I S S U E O F F I N E D I N I N G I N YO U R E - M A I L - F R E E O F C H A RG E ? PLEASE GIVE US AN E-MAIL TO [email protected]

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FINE DINING & DE SI G N

I N S P I R AT I O N A L W I N E K N O W L E D G E A N D T H E P E O P L E B E H I N D T H E D R I N K

Ma rc h

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

W eb A uction

SPOTLIGHT ON NEW ZEALAND PART 4 PAGE 25

BOËRL & KROFF - A WELL-KEPT CHAMPAGNE SECRET PAGE 32

2017 I N T E R N A T I O N A L

special

GEMTREE - AN ECOLOGIC GEM PAGE 49

PAGE 7 FRASCATI - A WINE WITH A DISTINGUISHED LEGACY PAGE 14 THE LATEST NEWS FROM SOUTH AFRICA PAGE 25 SPOTLIGHT ON NEW ZEALAND PART 4 PAGE 32 BÖERL 6 KROFF A WELL-KEPT CHAMPAGNE SECRET PAGE 36 STELLENZICHT ”TOP OF THE LINE” IN STELLENBOSCH PAGE 40 THE HISTORY BEHIND BATZELLA PAGE 45 THE CHAMPAGNE BUBBLE THAT BURST PAGE 49 GEMTREE - AN ECOLOGIC GEM PAGE 54 FINE WINE PRODUCER OF THE YEAR 2017 PAGE 55 GET SERIOUS SYSTEMBOLAGET FINE SPIRITS / COLLECTABLE INVESTMENTS PAGE 57 FINE SPIRITS & COLLECTABLE INVESTMENTS THE DALMORE TO RELEASE A 50 YEAR OLD SINGLE MALT TO MARK HALF A CENTURY OF RICHARD PATERSON´S PIONEERING WHISKY MAKING PAGE 59 CHERRY HEERING CELEBRATING 200 TASTEFUL YEAR WEBAUCTION SPECIAL: PAGE 62 STOCKHOLM 6-7-8 MARS, THE FIRST AUCTION OF THE YEAR WITH A SPECIAL THEME PAGE 64 HART DAVIS HART WINE CO. TO HOLD A MASSIVE THREE-DAY INTERNET-ONLY AUCTION PAGE 66 CHRISTIE’S WINE DEPARTMENT ARE PROUD TO OFFER A SUPERB SELECTION OF VINTAGES DIRECT FROM THE CELLARS OF CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC PAGE 67 BONHAMNS AUCTION 6 APRIL IN LONDON PAGE 68 ERNESTO NETO INTERPRETS ORNELLAIA 2014 ‘L’ESSENZA.’

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